I heard about Elbrus a long time ago in childhood, a class like that in the second or third, and then confused it with Everest, and thought that these were all the names of one mountain.
They are all tall. When I knew that there was a cable car on Elbrus, I thought that it leads almost to the top itself — one or two — I did not know yet, I heard something about some kind of “barrel” and about the observatory.
The situation got better a few years ago when I began to be more interested in mountains. I learned that Elbrus is a volcano, has 2 peaks, learned its exact height – 5642 meters, the top peak and 5621 meters – the bottom, I learned that there are routes 6a and 6b of difficulty categories to Elbrus – Kükürtlu routes along the Ullu – Khurzuk gorge, that the cable car does not to the end, but magically to the same “barrels” that I had heard about before. Then it was planned to climb Elbrus.
After closing the 3rd category in Bezengi, we went down to Nalchik, bought train tickets home, ate and on the same transport headed for the village of Terskol.
We arrived in Terskol at 15:00. I remember it well. Terskol is a small village at an altitude of 2130 meters above sea level. Really small. Elbrus is not visible from it, even the observatory is not visible. Having bought some little things in the style of apples, Mars bars, of course lemonade, and having gathered, we headed forward. And we were walking a little. Only five novice third-ranking students, two senior-ranking students, and a “Pro” climber-physicist, calm and kind.
In principle, the climb itself began with an ascent along a long, seemingly endless serpentine, but it went easily: there were no laces, braces or bookmarks. There was food, a sleeping bag, cats, tracking sticks. We reached the end of the forest part, as it turned out, it was exactly half the climb. Everything was fine in strength, we were expecting our senior ranks who were a little behind – they just wanted to sit on the ground, and we thought something serious, and continued along the serpentine. Very soon, the Maiden’s Spit waterfall appeared before us, very good. A real waterfall, tall.
After the waterfall, another hour’s progress, 4 turns of the serpentine and we came. Where? What do you think in the territory of Ukraine! The Ukrainian observatory, as our guide from Nazareth from the Terskol Observatory told us. The observatory itself, it turns out, was – although not sure what it is now exactly the same, on the territory of Ukraine. If at first we were going pretty cool, then something at the observatory we were not so fun going. Nevertheless, they made a vertical kilometer – the observatory is located at an altitude of 3127 meters above sea level. It consists of a hotel for workers – it is now under construction, the telescopes themselves – 1 large and 3 small, and many more technical buildings. We spent the night on the lake just above the observatory, but with the help of our kindly guide, we were allowed to spend the night in a hotel for workers. I remember how we ourselves didn’t have our own happiness in the rooms, we saw beds, armchairs, tables, pillows and warm woolen bedspreads.
I remember someone screaming down the corridor “people, there is a shower in every room!” We thought it was the height of happiness then! And then what happened! And further down the hall was a banquet hall. Present. Where are the six tables! I remember for sure. There was no limit to our delight. And this is not the limit – our savior thought and we went to another house to eat and take a hot shower. And not just eat, but eat deliciously as much as one could squeeze into oneself!
“Climbing Mount Elbrus?” And for what? We are well here. Delicious food, views. ” Somewhere with such thoughts we fell asleep. To say that we slept well is to say nothing. The next day, we had breakfast in a good mood, went on a tour of the observatory, packed our bags and moved forward, despite protests and requests to stay here. And Elbrus was already visible, and therefore our goal.
After some time hiking along the trails, picking champignons, passing small barn Owls from lava-burnt stones, we approached the glacier. There already, and “barrels” appeared on the horizon. Going then became a little more difficult, but we rushed forward, once – and we are already at the “barrels”. And there is a lift, and mattresses. There is also a bar with lemonade, which I did not lose the chance to buy and try. Having a good rest by the lift, we went forward, bogging down ankle-deep in mud, mud from melted ice, with impurities of the swamp, and who else knows what. After a while, we went out onto a large ice plain, and now Shelter-11 appeared. A little more – we are already above the shelter, at an altitude of 4000-4100 meters.
Found more or less suitable sites for tents. Made tea. It is good to watch from a height while drinking tea and watching the sunset.
Finally we got together, set up our assault camp, got water from under the glacier, and started to pack. We then slept five in my triple tent. But somehow it was even bearable. In a word, wrapped up, we began to fall asleep a little. Still, our first night at such a height. They offered to wake up at 3 a.m., and leave – when we leave. They decided on that. In the morning we ate, took our backpacks and went to make our climb to Elbrus.
